[Letter from Ann Upshur Eyre to her sister, Elizabeth Upshur Teackle, October 30, 1824]

30^th October 1824

I am sure you have been impatient to hear from me, my dearest friends, but I have been so occupied that I have not been able to write. I have been to York and to Norfolk, and have seen so much that it wou'd take me a year to think of, and recount it all, to you. We went over in Mr. Bowdoin's boat¹ on Sunday the 17^th [land] to encounter bad accommodations with the boat cramed full of people. We did not reach York untill late the following day. We had a beautiful view of the grand display of steamboats all dress'd as they pass'd us. The leading with LaFayette on board. I dare say you have read the whole account in the papers. On reaching York, Mr. E. went on shore to look if a spot of solid ground cou'd be found for us, but before his return, our good fortune and the beauty which we had on board our little bark, brought some very polished gentlemen from the steam boat , which was from B-e to french town. In the most courteous manner they offered us the intire use of the ladies cabin, which they said shou'd be sacred to us, if we cou'd not be better situated on shore, but behold! Mssrs. E. and Winder returned having found rooms for us at Mrs. Gen'l Taylor's quarters, where was herself, Emily, Lelia, Mrs. Archy Taylor, and a great many others, ladies of officers and their trains. All was gay bustle and [confusion]. I was soon at the toilet, having received an invitation to spend

the evening at headquarters, Major Genl Taylors tent. How novel a scene this was to me you may well imagine. The Genls staff waited on us to conduct us to camp, and the splendid Barrouche which was provided for LaFayette with four elegant white horses and servants in Livery, was ready to receive us, with another superb carriage two others for our party. We were in this superb style conducted to camp, by the genls staff on elegant coursers and in splendid uniforms. Major Meyers riding before to point the way, what a scene awaited me there! I shall never be able to describe the genls quarters was a spacious Marquee with an outer and inner apartment. These were lively illuminated, and thronged with the first characters in the country, all the officers in splendid uniforms. The commander in chief was without all doubt the combination of all that was noble and splendid both in person, manners, and dress. The military coat he wore was exceeding rich with embroidery in gold. He was all affability and condescention, and paid his devoirs in a manner to engage all hearts. In all my life I never saw any thing so strickingly grand as the illumination of the camp. The encampment occupied a large plain and the tents were so arranged as to give an appearance of greater extent than reality. As far as your eye could reach it seemed as if the whole host of heaven had lighted on the ground. Genl. La Fayette, conducted by some distinguished personages, walked thro the camp, lighted by candles that had been a part of the military stores at the siege of York. After viewing the camp, we went into it, and were elegantly entertained in a barn which was illuminated, and happened to fall in the range of the command of Col. Eustis, in the United States service. His lady held it as a drawing room, and there was a military display and a large assemblage of ladies dancing to military music from a superb band dress'd in uniform. I cannot I am sure give you any id[ea]

of the scene without the barn, the illuminated tents, rockets constantly curving in the air. The bustle of officers and their suites formed the most imposing spetacle. We returned to York in the La Fayette Barrouche and as we passed the lines, were cheered, supposing us the great man, "Huza for the white horses." It was late, we returned to our lodgings and the next day being the 19th, we attuned ourselves for the great occasion, were introduced to LaFayette in the tent of Washington² and after these ceremonies were over we hasten'd to the grand arch which had been erected on the redoubt which La Fayette had stormed, where thousands of military and civil, had collected to do honor to him. We were placed within the arch, by order of the Genl³ and witnessed the whole ceremony, the procession and La Fayette as he advanced was met by Genl. Taylor, who delivered an address which I hope you will see, as I have no doubt it will be published in all the papers. This was a memorable day, you can form no idea of the military display. I never saw any thing like it before. In the evening, there was grand fire works, and on the following morning, we came down to Norfolk in the United States, crowded with company and military. The old Point Band playing all the while and the company dancing among the distinguished and elegant persons on hand was Genl. Mercer who I have known since I was a girl. Mr. Tucker, who it is said Louisa has captivated, with many others gay and agreeable. Genl Taylor remained at camp and escorted La Fayette to Williamsburgh, James town &c. and arrived on Friday with him at Norfolk. The scene opened finely, a lovely girl forming one of a group, represented the genius of Norfolk. She with her lovely companions dress'd in flowers, met him at his quarters which were splendid indeed and deliver'd in poetry, an address by Mr. Maxwell. I cannot crowd into a sheet all that this eventful week embraced. We had a grand dance at Genl Taylors on Saturday, where La Fayette saw all the town, at least as many as cou'd be well squeezed together. We had Genl Mason, Secretary Calhoun, Genl Macombe and a great many dignitaries from Washington and elsewhere. I am quite well acquainted with Calhoun and like